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Negative Waterproofing

Negative-side waterproofing goes on the surface opposite the water, typically the interior of a basement wall or slab where the exterior cannot be reached. It blocks water pressure pushing through the concrete from behind.Use it when the water-facing side is out of reach: an existing basement against a boundary, a...

Frequently Asked Questions

What is negative-side waterproofing?
Waterproofing applied to the surface opposite the water, typically the interior of a basement wall or slab where the exterior cannot be reached. It blocks water pressure pushing through the concrete from behind.
When is negative waterproofing the only option?
When the water-facing side is out of reach. An existing basement against a boundary, a retaining wall backfilled with earth, or a tunnel. The waterproofing must hold from the dry side.
What products are used for negative waterproofing?
Cementitious membranes like Gripset C-1P, moisture-barrier primers like Ardex WPM 300, Everflex VBS and Gripset E-60, rapid-set water plugs like Gripset C-Plug and Mapei Lamposilex, and crack-injection resins from Mountain Grout. The choice depends on whether the wall is weeping, cracked or damp.
Does negative waterproofing hold under high water pressure?
It holds where the product is rated for the pressure and the substrate is sound. Negative-side systems rely on bond and penetration into the concrete. They are less forgiving than positive-side membranes under sustained hydrostatic head. Follow the product rating.
How does crack injection relate to negative waterproofing?
Crack injection is the main negative-side technique for a cracked, leaking basement wall. The resin is injected from the interior to seal the crack against water passage. It is often combined with a negative membrane over the rest of the wall.
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